香水は、どんな原料によって作られているか、詳しく知らないという方も多いのではないでしょうか。
今回は、香水の原料を調べてみました。
香水の原料ってどんなものがある？
香水の原料は、主に3つに分けられています。
まず1つ目は、花や果実などの植物です。
2つ目は動物で、3つ目が合成原料と呼ばれる木材やアルコールなどがあります。
これらの原料を、抽出や蒸留することで香水に使用される香料が作られます。
香水に使用される香料にも3種類ある
香料には、天然香料、合成香料、調合香料の3種類があります。
天然香料は、植物や動物を原料として作られた香料を指します。
合成香料は、自然界に存在しない香りであり、天然香料の香りを再現するために作られます。
また、合成香料は価格が安く、生産性が高いので、香水以外にも幅広く使われているのが特徴です。
そして、天然香料と合成香料を組み合わせたり、合成香料同士を組み合わせた香料が調合香料です。
くじらなど動物を原料とした香水はどんな香り？
では、ここからは動物を原料とした香水の香りについてみていきましょう。
くじらを原料とした香料は、どのような香りがするのでしょうか。
アンバーグリスやムスクは動物から採れる香料
ほのかに甘さのあるパウダリーな香りが特徴のアンバーグリスは、マッコウクジラの体内で作られた結石が原料となっています。
この結石から作られた香料は、竜涎香（りゅうぜんこう）と呼ばれており、過去にはこの竜涎香を手に入れるために捕鯨が行われていたこともあるようです。
また、多くの香水に使用されているムスクも動物から採れる香料です。
ムスクは、ジャコウジカという鹿のオスの香嚢が原料となっています。
しかし、1975年に結ばれたワシントン条約により、天然のムスクの取引は禁止されているので、現在香水に使用されているムスクは、すべて合成香料で作られています。
花や植物を原料とした香水は種類豊富
ここからは、花や植物を原料とした香水の香りについてみていきましょう。
フローラルやグリーン系の香水が好きな方は、ぜひチェックしてみてください。
花だけでなく葉や果実も香料になる
花や植物を原料とする場合、様々な部位から香料を採取することができます。
例えば、オレンジを原料とする場合、花や葉はもちろん、果実からも香料を作ることが可能です。
他にも、ベチバーは植物の根を原料としていたり、カルダモンやコリアンダーは植物の種を原料としています。
また、バラやジャスミンなどよく知られた花や食べられる果実以外にも、ハーブなどあまり知られていない植物が香水の原料となることもあります。
高価な天然香料は合成香料で再現することも
花や植物から作られる天然香料の中には、少量しか採取できないために非常に貴重なものも。
その場合、天然香料に似せて合成香料を作ることがあります。
特に、天然香料のローズは希少性が高いので、香水に使用すると高価になりすぎてしまいます。
そのため、香水の価格を抑えたい場合、ゲラニオールやシトロネロールという成分を組み合わせて、ローズの香りを再現しています。
香水の原料を一覧でご紹介！
ここからは、香水によく使用される香料の原料を一覧でご紹介します。
名前を聞いても、どのような香りなのかわかりにくいものをピックアップしました。
香りの原料を知ることで、より香水を楽しむことができますよ。
果皮の苦みとさわやかさが魅力！ベルガモット
ベルガモットの香料は、柑橘系の果皮を原料としています。
果皮に含まれる成分によって、ほのかな苦みが感じられるさわやかな香りに。
香水ではトップノートによく使用されており、アールグレイなど紅茶の香りの香水にも使用されていますよ。
さわやかなフローラルの香り！ネロリ
ネロリは、オレンジの花から抽出します。
水蒸気蒸留法で作られた香料はネロリと呼びますが、溶剤抽出法で作られると、オレンジフラワー・アブソリュートと呼ばれます。
オレンジの花らしい、シトラスとフローラルが合わさった香りが特徴です。
和名では白檀（びゃくだん）と呼ばれるサンダルウッド
サンダルウッドは、和名で白檀（びゃくだん）と呼ばれ、お香のような落ち着いた香りが魅力です。
原料は樹木の中心部分で、主にインドや東南アジアで生産されています。
多くの香水のラストノートに使われており、温かみのある残り香が人気の理由です。
根が原料！ラストノートによく使われるベチバー
ベチバーはイネ科の多年草で、根を原料として香料が作られます。
スモーキーなウッディ系の香りで、ラストノートで使用されることが多いでしょう。
温かみの中に、どこかエキゾチックなアクセントがある香りです。
甘くてパウダリーな香り！トンカビーンズ
トンカビーンズの原料は、トンカの木の種です。この種を乾燥させて、香料を抽出します。
トンカビーンズは、キャラメルやバニラのような甘くてパウダリーな香りが魅力です。
ラストノートに使用すると、甘くて柔らかい余韻の残る香水になりますよ。
苔が原料！温かみのある香りを表現するオークモス
オークモスは、楢（なら）の木の表面についている、苔が原料となっています。
湿り気のある温かな香りは、ウッディ系の香水と相性抜群。
男性用の香水の、ラストノートとしてよく使用される香料です。
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